Armani Prive Spring couture 2014
Tonight's Armani Privé couture show,
the fulcrum of yet another of Giorgio Armani's One Night Only
spectaculars, was no exception. The beginning was casual, tentative:
little silk tops with plissé pants or skirts, a silk jacquard blazer
paired with a gazar skirt. Then a new dimension kicked in. The
models—heads wrapped in scarves, with dangly earrings, in full
skirts and low-heeled shoes—began to evoke the gypsy spirit of arch
fashion icon Loulou de la Falaise. That is hallowed ground for any
designer, given de la Falaise's goddess/muse status with Yves Saint
Laurent. You have to be a titan to take it on. Armani clearly has the
cojones to claim the look.
He did it with his default position:
navy blue.It's North African navy where he has found his sweet spot—the
midnight blue of a velvety desert sky, untroubled by ambient light,
alive with stars. Tonight's collection, named Nomade for all the
tribes who drift under heaven's dome, moved on from midnight to gloss
the silveriness of those stars with a Byzantine decorative edge. It was
enough to make you wonder whether the play of dark and light in an
Armani collection isn't ultimately all about the boy Giorgio alone in
a movie theater while war rages outside. And if this is the way he
exorcises his demons, then all power to him.
The one and only Mr.Giorgio Armani
